Tag Archives: Essaouira

Essaouira Fish Market

There is only one tower where I know I’d live and be locked up forever, even to die there rather than return the keys – Mogador in Africa.” Paul Claudel

Essaouira, (formerly Mogador) is a walled city dating from the time of the Phoenicians, who named it Migdol or small fortress. In 1506, the city became the seat of a Portuguese fortress and was strengthened by the construction of ramparts.
We started at the fortress, surrounded by gulls who would be hoping for some fishy tidbits later in the day.

Essaouira fortress video

A short video at the fortress (Click on the image to watch)

After another delicious lunch, we headed to the fish market – the quantities and varieties just amazed me.

Crabs for sale

Crabs for sale

Sting rays for sale

Sting rays for sale

Please excuse the way my sketches from this adventure are slowly dribbling in as I continue working on them, in between any new places I find!

 

O’er the Ramparts in Essaouira

For our third day in Essaouira (Tuesday), we had our art lesson on the roof, sunshine and perfect temperatures as usual.  I think we are spoiled with this weather!  Well, I am, for sure. The thought of returning to wintry weather back home is the furthest thing from my mind right now!
Karen (our art tutor) discussed colors – contrast, cooler vs. warmer, neutrals, how to use color to recede shapes and a great idea for texture – using wax resist.
We walked down to the fort area, with cannons and ramparts and started sketching.

Essaouira ramparts

Original fort walls

Essaouira Fort

Essaouira Fort

Our lunch was at a sunny rooftop restaurant. Taking a break from the delicious Moroccan fare, I split a pizza with Karen.
Next, I passed on sketching and went shopping. A few of us stopped into a store and bought lovely linen jalabas, which are hooded caftans.  The owner thought we were trying to negotiate, when really, we were only deciding whether to buy them right then, or wait until we returned. So he talked himself down 25% by the time we decided!  This was after he said he didn’t negotiate! He made sure to have them shortened and delivered to our riad.  I doubt you’ll find that kind of service at home, especially for that price!

Late afternoon – Karen and Nancy decided to go for a camel ride.  Abdul (our Moroccan guide) came with us to the beach and took care of getting us there and getting the camels. I decided not to ride, but instead to sketch the one camel (meant for me in case I changed my mind) who posed ever so nicely.  The minute my sketch was done, he got up and ambled away.  No one was there to make sure he didn’t leave. And no one was there (that I could see) to attend to the horse that galloped by. Whaaat? Just horses and camels strolling about the beach. That is so not normal in the U.S.  At home, all creatures are tied up or penned in.
This was just another moment in time that added to the surreal Moroccan experience.

My camel (that I didn't ride!)

My camel. (that I didn’t ride!) While sketching, Abdul needed to remind me to extend his lower lip. (The camel’s, not Abdul’s!)

But – back to their camel ride – I got some gorgeous shots of them riding off into the sunset.

Karen and Nancy riding their camels into the sunset

Karen and Nancy riding their camels into the sunset

Dinner that night was fish. Fresh fish caught that day at a popular seaside eatery.  Sea bass, sardines, crab, lobster, sea bream, calamari, red snapper, plate after plate (after plate!) of fish was served. Unfortunately, my very first bite resulted in a tiny bone getting lodged in my gums.  And truthfully, while I did try a fish or two, I’m not used to so many kinds of fresh, fresh fish. And not so much a sea food lover. I didn’t go hungry though, there were enough fries and salad!

Essaouira fish dinner

Essaouira fish dinner

Note: I know it’s been awhile since my last post! I went away (yes, again) and now the holidays are here. I appreciate your patience while I play catchup!

Exploring Essaouira

Day 1 started off with a short art lesson on the roof.  Temperatures were comfortable mid 70s the entire week.  Karen (of Art Safari)  had some really great tips and instructions on perspective, and how to “shrink” people as they get further away, depending if you are sitting or standing.  She also gave a few pointers on the different arch types in buildings.

Lesson in perspective

Our first lesson was valuable with so many people around!

Then, we were off exploring this new town.  So many sights, sounds, people and creatures – it could have been overwhelming to the senses, but Karen got us sketching first thing, and that definitely got me focused: What do I want to sketch?  Study it before starting.  Then, just make the lines.  Everything else slowly fades away.

Bread wagon

Bread wagon

 

Essaouira window

Essaouira window

Shop display

Shop display

After a bit, we all stopped for a break. The mint tea again! Oh joy.  I so need to learn to re-create at home.  But it’s never the same, is it?

Mint tea

Mint tea

Then more walking, some lunch and more sketching. (Exactly what I came for!) We found (I should say Abdul found it!) a shop that sold spices and watercolor pigments. The owner happily demonstrated the various colors, which several of us went back to purchase later.

Watercolor Pigments in Essaouira

Watercolor Pigments such as mogador blue and blue marjorelle

Closed up the afternoon sketching in a square with colorful rugs for sale, displayed on the sidewalk, even hanging from trees!

Rugs on display

Rugs on display

Madrid to Essaouira

Although I was still on US time internally and woke up super early, I nearly missed my flight!  I did not realize there was passport inspection after going through security.  And there were tons of people! As I ran to my gate, I could see the door was closed.  Oh crap, I thought.  Breathless, I asked if there was anyway I could get on?  Then I stopped and saw several others in the same situation as me.  “They’re taking us to the plane” someone said. Oh phew!  I would’ve been flustered had I truly missed it!
Then, on the plane, super roomy!  Thank you Iberia!  Can you sell a plane or two to United? Their planes have zero leg room!
Arriving in Marrakech, it is one hour ahead of Madrid, so I get to live 12:25 to 1:25 all over again.  Kind of makes up for the running for the plane out-of-breath part.

Arriving at the airport

I was met by our driver and my guide, Abdul. We took off in comfort in the German camel (a Mercedes SUV).
We stopped at a roadside diner for lunch, where I got an omelet with mushrooms, a flat bread and two dipping sauces (not sure what flavors?) and had my first (but not last) taste of their delicious mint tea. Ahh.

Omelet with mushrooms and delicious mint tea

Three hours later, we arrived in Essaouira.  My riad was in the walled medina, so we left the car, took my luggage and walked through the cobblestone streets the last part.

The riad Al Medina was very charming.

Riad Al Medina

Riad Al Medina

My room was nice, with separate living area, bedroom and upstairs bath.  The bathroom lighting was a bit dim, but otherwise it was a nice place to stay.
Next up – our first day in Essaouira with the group and Karen!